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Rock Climbing, 'Cadet Rock', Spain, Calpe, Oct 2013, ID 1537

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The CCAT Spanish rock climbing course (CADET ROCK) was based in Albir, Spain during the period 19-26 Oct 13.

The Costa Blanca is a well known destination for Autumn/Winter sun rock climbing devotees. The temperate Mediterranean climate at this time of year, a modest 20°-28° c, is perfect. The rock climbing venues are vast and vary from valley crags providing single pitch through multi-pitch, to extensive sea cliffs and onto some massive classic mountain routes. The quality of the climbing on the grey limestone is outstanding offering both bolted and traditional led routes. Combined with the additional ingredient of being very steep the climbs look initially daunting but every route is a gem. The rock climbing area is so vast that the development of climbing venues continues to this day, swelling an already comprehensive guide book (Costa Blanca Rockfax Feb 2013).

Alicante has an international airport with regular flights from several UK destinations. The key to finding the real value for money bargain is to be flexible, avoid school holidays and book early. Car hire companies are equally plentiful and again it is worthwhile shopping around for the best deal but also to pre-book to avoid the queues on arrival. This year we chose JET2 with direct flights to Alicante from Manchester.

The aim of CADET ROCK was to develop the multi-pitch rock climbing skills, knowledge and experience of a group of eight selected Cadet Force Adult Volunteer instructors and Senior Cadets (17yrs+) on a pathway towards achieving both Joint Service and Nationally accredited qualifications in the future. The team consisted of 4 Adult Cadet Instructors (3 x male & 1 x female) and 4 x Senior Cadets (2 x male & 2 x female). They would all be trained and assessed for the Joint Service Rock Climbing Foundation (RCF) qualification. Four instructors were employed to deliver the course.

The initial climbing training was conducted at a local coastal crag, Sierra De Toix. We kick started the programme with a climbing coaching session – movement over rock to develop technique as well as looking at the essential skills at a single pitch venue. The afternoon was a taste of multi-pitch climbing and provided an insight of what was to come over the next five days.

On Monday we all went into Echo valley to complete our first extensive multi pitch route of the course and to use these routes to consolidate and further enhance individual skills.

We primed the team for a big route the following day.

Two teams went to a local mountain overlooking the coast, Puig Campana, to complete the huge 400mts 13 pitch Esplonon Central grade 4+ and the other 2 teams went to another inland mountain, Cabezon De Oro, to complete the 325mts 7 pitch Via Gene grade 5. We did not get back to the hotel complex until 8pm.

Following on from a physically demanding day, we took a more sedate approach on a single pitch climbing venue to drip feed more technical training and hone the climbing technique as well as raising the bar a little by giving the teams their first opportunity to lead a single pitch route under close supervision.

We were gearing up for the final day and another huge route. The Penon De Ifach is one of the most striking landmarks, a 332mts rock tower overlooking the town of Calpe and the Mediterranean. The south face is a huge vertical orange coloured wall with routes weaving their way through the complex system of slabs, grooves and ridges to the summit. This was the objective for 2 teams on the 235mts Via Valencianos route grade 5+ and the other 2 teams went to complete the Esplonon Central on Puig Campana. The routes were one of the highlights of the trip and exemplify the reason for choosing this area.

Did we achieve our aims?

  • Seven candidates achieved the RCF qualification.
  • All four CFAVs will be returning on Leader qualification courses in 2014.
  • Each team climbed over 1000mts of rock.

We offer our grateful thanks to the Ulysses Trust for their generous financial support towards the costs of the CADET ROCK course.

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